The Albanian Riviera: A Coastal Road Trip from Vlorë to Ksamil

South of Vlorë, the Albanian coastline turns into one of the most beautiful drives in Europe. The road climbs over a pine-covered mountain pass, then drops to a string of white-pebble beaches, olive groves and fishing villages along the Ionian Sea. This is the Albanian Riviera, and it is still far quieter than its neighbours across the water.

Here is how we like to travel it, stop by stop.

Vlorë: where two seas meet

Vlorë sits where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea, and it is the natural starting point for the coast. Walk the long seafront promenade, then head south to the Zvërnec lagoon, where a wooden footbridge leads to the small island monastery of St Mary, surrounded by pine trees and water birds.

Llogara Pass: the view that stops every car

Leaving Vlorë, the road climbs through Llogara National Park to a pass just over 1,000 metres above sea level. At the top the whole Riviera opens up below you: the Karaburun peninsula, the deep blue Ionian and, on clear days, the island of Corfu on the horizon. Stop at one of the mountain restaurants for grilled lamb and a coffee with a view.

Dhërmi, Jalë and Himarë

Dhërmi and Jalë are the first beaches after the pass, with bright white pebbles and water so clear you can see the seabed from the shore. A little further south, Himarë combines a relaxed beach town with an old hilltop quarter and quieter coves within walking distance.

Porto Palermo and Borsh

At Porto Palermo, a triangular fortress linked to Ali Pasha of Tepelena sits on a tiny peninsula in a sheltered bay. It is a short visit, and the swimming nearby is excellent. Continue to Borsh, one of the longest beaches on the coast, backed by terraces of olive and citrus trees.

Sarandë, Ksamil and Butrint

Sarandë is the Riviera’s liveliest town, with a palm-lined promenade and sunset views from Lëkurësi Castle above the bay. Corfu is less than an hour away by ferry.

Just south, Ksamil is famous for its turquoise water and small islands you can swim or paddle to. Pair it with a visit to Butrint National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian ruins sit in a forest beside a lagoon. Inland, the Blue Eye spring is an easy half-day trip from Sarandë.

When to go

• June and September are ideal: the sea is warm, the beaches are calm and prices are lower.
• July and August are hot and busy, so book accommodation early.
• May and October are perfect for sightseeing and walking, if you don’t mind cooler water.

Travel tips

• The coastal road is well paved but winding, so allow more time than the map suggests.
• Carry some cash (lek or euro) for beach bars, parking and small family restaurants.
• Order the catch of the day: grilled fish, mussels from the Butrint lagoon and a glass of local white wine.

Explore the coast with us

Our Discovery: Vlora and Treasures of Albania and Corfu tours include the best of the Riviera, with local guides and comfortable hotels. Browse all our boat and sea tours or ask us to plan a private trip.